I Researched “Water-Proof Jewellery” So You Don’t Have to.

"Waterproof jewellery" is the latest buzzword being splashed across ads and influencer reels — but let me save you some time: it’s mostly marketing fluff. In this post, I’m going to break down what’s actually going on with all these claims, and why you should always read the fine print before diving into that pool with your necklace on.

"Waterproof" is a Marketing Gimmick, Not an Innovation.

Most brands using the term "waterproof jewellery" are banking on two things:

1. That you’re uninformed about how jewellery is made,

2. And that you won’t read the warranty exceptions or terms and conditions.

NO plating, metal coating or metal is invincible. Saltwater, sand, chlorine, soaps, perfumes — they all wear down coatings over time. And most so-called “waterproof” pieces are just PVD-coated stainless steel or very thin gold plating over a base metal.

Let’s talk about what that actually means.

Understanding Plating: PVD, Gold Plated, Vermeil, and Gold Fill

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) This is what is marketed as “WATERPROOF”

• Used mainly on stainless steel.

• Very durable compared to traditional gold plating.

• Often marketed as “10x’s thicker than gold plating” — but good luck getting a straight answer on thickness. I contacted several bestselling “waterproof” jewellery brands to ask how many microns thick their PVD coatings actually are. Not a single one replied. NOT ONE.

• While PVD is known for its durability, it often misses hard-to-reach areas like the insides of chain links, the backs of hinged earrings, or intricate crevices — leaving parts of the base metal exposed from the start. These missed spots create weak points where moisture, sweat, and skin oils can seep in and start corroding the exposed base metal underneath. Over time, this can cause discolouration, flaking, or even structural weakening of the piece — especially in high-friction areas like clasps and hinges.

• Requires a tin layer (or similar) between steel and gold to help adhesion. Stainless steel is a very difficult metal to coat with other metals. Tin is fairly corrosion-resistant, but in humid or salty conditions — like on skin or in the ocean — it can oxidize over time. If exposed due to thin or patchy plating, tin corrosion can weaken the bond between layers and eventually cause the finish to degrade.

• PVD-coated jewellery is not easily repairable or re-platable. Once the coating wears down or gets damaged, you can’t just "touch it up" like you might with traditional gold plating. The PVD process requires specialized vacuum equipment and can't be selectively applied to small areas — so repairing a worn section usually means stripping and re-coating the entire piece (which most jewellers don’t offer). In many cases, that makes PVD jewellery essentially disposable once the coating fails. Which is why they so often offer such “seemingly" great value bundle deals- They’re selling you junk.

Gold Plated

• Usually just 0.1 to 0.5 microns thick. up to 0.1 microns is what’s called “flash plating”- and it’s mainly used for decorative applications, rather than high wear things like jewellery. 0.5 microns is pretty much the minimum thickness to be classified as gold plated jewellery.

• Wears off quickly with daily wear, especially on rings and chains.

• To give you perspective, a human hair is about 80 microns thick. So that 0.5 micron plating? Invisible compared to a strand of hair.

Gold Vermeil

• Sterling silver base with a thicker layer of gold. To be classified as Vermeil, it must be at least 2.5 microns thick.

• Much better quality, much longer lasting, and with a precious metal base- but still not invincible.

Gold Fill

• Mechanically bonded thick layer of gold which must be at least 5% of the total weight of the piece.

• Gold fill is mostly bonded to brass base metal.

• Far more durable than plating or PVD, and more valuable due to it’s higher gold content, even with a brass base.

Gold is a very soft metal — on the Vickers hardness scale, pure gold (24k) measures only 25 Vickers, which is extremely low compared to metals like palladium-my favourite- (400–600 Vickers) or even stainless steel (around 200 Vickers). That softness means gold plating is especially prone to wear from friction, contact with skin, and exposure to water or chemicals — and when the gold layer is just a fraction of a micron thick, it doesn’t take long before it starts to fade.

Palladium Plating: The Unsung Hero

I personally plate a lot of my sterling silver chains with palladium, I also plate my copper electroformed pieces in this amazing luxe metal— and yes, it’s awesome. Why? Because palladium is:

• Naturally hypoallergenic

• Tarnish-resistant

• In the Platinum family (lush luxury!)

• Durable (400–600 Vickers hardness, far tougher than silver or gold, and harder than stainless steel!)- Very resistant to scratches, wear and tear

I apply a 1-micron thick palladium layer, one piece at a time, by hand, using the very best eco-and human-friendly chemicals, which I source from Italian brand Legor, true innovators in the metal finishing industry. No mystery metals. No mass production shortcuts.

And when it does eventually wear down? You’re left with solid sterling silver underneath — not brass, not pot metal, not disappointment.

Why I Don’t Offer Gold Finishes (Yet)

I love gold — but I won’t offer it until I can do it properly. That means:

• A finish that’s genuinely durable

• Pricing that’s fair for you

• Materials I can stand behind 100%

I’m still experimenting and researching different methods — gold fill, vermeil, thick-plated silver, and more. When I launch gold options, you’ll know it’s been tested by ME, worn by ME, and worthy of YOU.

What Should Never Go Swimming

Even if something’s plated well, some materials just don’t like water. Here’s what to watch out for:

• Pearls: soft, porous, and easily damaged by chlorine or salt.

• Turquoise, opals, and other soft stones: they can absorb water, crack, or lose colour.

• Copper and brass: tarnish fast when wet.

• Delicate solder joins: can weaken or corrode over time.

Jewellery Care Basics

Want your pieces to last longer? Do this:

• Take them off before swimming or showering.

• Store them dry and clean.

• Avoid perfumes, lotions, and hairspray.

• Wipe them gently after wearing.

Final Word: Ask Better Questions

Before you buy into “waterproof,” ask:

• What’s the base metal? If stainless steel, ask what metal is used in between the steel and “gold”

• How thick is the plating or PVD coating, in microns?

• What method was used — and by whom?

• Is it repairable or replatable?

• Make sure you read the fine print.

If the brand can’t or won’t answer those questions, they’re hoping you don’t ask.

Smash the myth. Wear what you love. Stay informed

Disclaimer:
This post is for informational and educational purposes only. It reflects my research, experience, and professional opinion as a maker. All technical data is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of writing. I do not reference or critique any specific brands or businesses. Always check product details and warranties carefully before purchasing.